Cheap Eats: La Fonda Restaurante

When I'm in La Paz there's usually a check list of errands that need to be accomplished and I need to remember to stop and take the time to enjoy a meal. One convenient and favorite stop for breakfast is La Fonda located on the corner of Bravo & Revolución. I usually like to order the chilaquiles with chicken and salsa verde, but this time I opted for the house specialty which is Nopal (cactus) and Cheese Omelette with their house Pepin Sauce, which is reduction of roasted tomatoes and peppers. The meal was served with refried beans and container of hot corn tortillias. With coffee and fresh O.J. the check came to $65 pesos. The mornings head lines read, "Downtown La Paz in Crises."

With the opening of mega stores on the outskirts of town such as Walmart and Sam's club, the downtown merchants are suffering for business.

The downtown did seem quiet for a Saturday, but it was only 9 a.m.

The restaurant was empty when I first arrived. By the time I left a group of gentleman ranchers filled up the outdoor dining area. The centro and old mercado are a few blocks away and will head in that direction.

Pozolé Thursdays at Ataxcon

Landi Ortega of Ataxcon says in her home state of Guerrero, pozolé is served every Thursday. No one knows why, but it's always been that way, says Landi and no matter where you're at--Acupulco, Taxco, Iguala or Zihuateanejo pozolé is traditionally served on Thursdays and Ataxcon is pleased to carry on the tradition in Todos Santos. Landi has been serving pozolé each Thursday for over a year, for her restaurant recently celebrated their first anniversary. She says her pozolé is made from "real pozolé" and takes a day to prepare and the texture is meatier and heartier than the canned version. I had a choice of white or green pozolé with with either cubes of pork or shredded chicken. The pozole was served in clay dishes and garnished with shredded lettuce, sliced radish, avocado and accompanied by a bowl of crispy house made tortilla chips, a quartered lime, and ramekins of chili flakes, oregano and served with a beverage ($65 pesos). The green version has the addition of green mole made from roasted pumpkin seeds and spices, and gives the soup an earthier taste and fuller body. She also serves a spicier red version and I enjoy alternating flavors with each visit.

(Landi at her 1st year anniversary party) Ataxcon also serves regular breakfast and lunch menu Thursdays 9 a.m.-9 p.m.; breakfast and lunch Mon, Tues, Wed and Friday 9 a.m. to 6 p.m. Closed weekends. Next time you're in the mood for some nourishing comfort food at reasonable prices, Landi will make you feel right at home. Located on Colegio Militar between Calle Hidalgo and Marquez de Leon. Tel 044 (612) 176-1275: Click for Photo Gallery

Cheap Eats: Compa Chava Mariscos

When it's 90 degrees and climbing with 60% humidity, there's nothing like an ice cold seafood cocktail to take the heat off and Compa Chava serves up an array of refreshing sea food cocktails and ceviche. On a recent visit, I ordered a shrimp and octopus cocktail ($70 pesos). Chava chopped the celery, onion and tomato to order and added his home made chilled shellfish broth (no Clamato in these cocktails!). He also makes his own "salsa picante" in a stone mortar right on the spot. My bench mates ordered fish ceviche tostadas ($15 pesos each), shrimp ceviche tostadas ($25 pesos each) and a Campechana (shellfish cocktail with clams, shrimp octopus, veges, broth $65 pesos). Located on Colegio Militar between Hidalgo and Marquez de Leon.