El Dharma Book Signing

El Dharma and Michael's Restaurant announce a book-signing party to celebrate the publication of Robert Hall's new book, "Buddha Now, Buda Ya" (featuring photographs by Alvaro Colindres). The book signing will take place on Sunday, January 10th at 3:00pm at the Galleria de Todos Santos. All are invited. Wine, snacks, and no-host bar will be served, and Robert will give a short reading from the English version of the book.

Puebla, Tenancingo, Mexico City and San Cristobol

September was quiet month, but we were busy planning

for the upcoming season. October started off with a with a series of gestalt workshops and a meditation retreat on mainland México. We just concluded a 7 day Vipassana retreat at Casa Tonalli and on our way to San Christobal for another workshop. Lots to catch up on, but wanted to share an amazing place to host retreats and workshops. I spent the golden hours photographing the center for their new web site. The owner didn't need to advertise and relied on referrals and word of mouth, but with the downtown in the economy they are realizing they need to make themselves more visible and streamline the registration process. I've lots of images to process, but for now here's a sneak peak preview of Casa Tonalli. For more information contact alvarobaja@mac.com.

Back On line . . . .

It took me a lot longer to set up the household again after Jimena had passed. Predicting an almost category 5 hurricane, we were expecting the roof to blow, so I packed all our valuables especially electronics, such as TV, DvD players, VCR, computers, six hard drives, a 23" monitor, a wide format and office printer, and all the wires, terminals and accessories. All the furniture on our patios was moved against the house or moved into the bodega. After almost of week of unpacking and putting my office back together, it feels like I'm just about back to normal. Upon clearing my office area just before the storm, I remember standing there and admiring my desk with nothing on it--a clean slate-- and for a moment, I was reminded why I enjoy being here during the rainy/hurricane season: when it's storming and the power is off and there's no place to go nor nothing to do, I am forced to sit still. Once I realize I have no control over the situation, I start letting go and begin to enjoy the change in pace. My tendency is to always be "doing" and it's during the Todos Santos summers and hurricane seasons that I return to a baseline of being and reminded why we moved to Todos Santos.

Back to Normal . . . I think

After all the predictions and commotion regarding hurricane Jimena, she decided to veer toward the Pacific and continue northward. We got rain and wind, but mild to what it could have been. We were without electricity for about 12 hours and as soon as I was starting to enjoy it, the power came back on. Back to normal . . . I think.

Before Jimena

The skies just before a hurricane are so intense and dramatic. I have often wondered if the Palapa in the photo would withstand a hurricane. We shall see . . . vamos a ver . . . Just started raining again, by this time on Tuesday we should be in the midst of Jimena. We are ready as we can be, so now we wait. An opportunity to meditate!

Hurricane Jimena: Hurricane Watch upgraded to Hurricane Warming

Hurricane Jimena

This year the rains came later than usual and we are starting off the Hurricane season with a bang. Hurricane Jimena is predicted to be a category four. Which means we'll need to take all the items off our front and rear patios and put everything in storage, including the furniture. During our first hurricane, we saw the wicker furniture fly away like toys, but the house did really well. Most likely we'll be without communications and power for a day, maybe longer. I'll be posting photographs, so stay tuned.

Pelican in Flight

Easy Sunday Morning

Easy Sunday morning enjoying Karla's carrot cake, warm ocean breezes and San Francisco Chronicle.

Canvas Prints Available Online

I'm pleased to announce Cardon at Dawn, Todos Santos available on line as Canvas Print.

11 x 14" Canvas Print $179

16x 24" Canvas Print $249

16 x 24" Print $120 (Glossy or Matte )

12 x 18" Print $79 (Glossy or Matte)

Todos Santos Landscapes:

Printroom Gallery Click Here

Beach Front Villa Punta Lobos

Sunday morning I got an early start and hiked up to the top of a hill top near Punta Lobos. I was working on a new real estate listing and the photos I had didn't do the property justice. I kept seeing this shot in my mind, and glad I made the effort: Click here for Beach Front Villa Punta Lobos Listing

Artisan Breads and Baked Goods

Several people mentioned they meant to buy bread at Karla and Mateo's so . . . reminding everyone their bakery is open Saturdays 9 a.m. until about 1 p.m. Last Saturday they had a bountiful display of whole wheat and rosemary loaves ($25 pesos each) as well as roasted eggplant and mushroom pizzettas ($25 pesos ea.), cheesesticks ($5 pesos ea.), chocolate brownies, date and pecan cookies ( 3 for $20 pesos), loaves of carrot cake and a moist fig bread ($30 pesos per loaf). They tend to sell out, so get their early. Casa Antigua is located on the corner of Topete & Horizonte down the street from La Esquina. Click her for Casa Angitua Listing

Pilates in Todos

Pilates classes in Todos Santos will continue throughout the summer. Mara Adame of Pilates in Cabo is an internationally certified Pilates Instructor and designs some effective work outs. She incorporates micromovements of abs and pelvic area. The exercises are subtle yet effective for strengthening the abdominals and building flexibility. All right here in Todos, classes held at El Hotelito Friday and Saturday's 10 a.m. & 6:30 p.m. Sundays at 10 a.m. Classes fill up, so reserve your space at mara@pilatesincabo.com.

August Twilight

As the summer heats up and the days get longer, the twilight takes on a whole new dimension from the rest of year. Due to the high depressions from tropical storms and humidity in the air, the moisture and haze makes for intensely colored skies and dramatic cloud formations. I've often heard visiting photographers comment on the quality of light in Todos Santos; it's as if there were a warming filter on the lens.

August sunsets and sunrises take on a surreal quality and an opportunity to create some unusal landscapes. There's about a 15 minute window where the light seems to illuminate everything it touches. Boulders and hillsides seem to glow from within and the reflections from the water's edge take on the color of sky. The hard edged lines soften and recede into the shadows and, with the release of the shutter, the passage of time stands still for a fraction of a second. While I was having these thoughts and making these images of the lagoon, a family came up to me and the father asked, "What do you see?" So I showed them the images on the LCD monitor on the back of the camera and they nodded in approval.

"What do you do with the photographs? Do you sell them?" Canvas Prints Click Here

Shake? What Shake . . . ?

A friend of mine from San Francisco called and sounded concerned and asked about the 6.9 shake. My reply was, "Earthquake? What Earthquake?" If you live in southern Baja most likely you missed it as well. The epicenter was near the boarder at Mexicali area and about 400 thousand residents were without power: San Diego 6 News

Mercado La Paz

After a hearty breakfast at La Fonda, I headed over to central mercado Francisco Madero. The streets seemed a bit subdued for a Saturday morning, but the mercado's seafood and meat vendors were bustling. The fish monger had fresh supplies of sea scallops, mussels, clams, shrimp, dorado and tuna all kept on ice and under glass showcases.

The meat purveyor down the hall was busy butchering a pig and the poultry purveyor also had nice plump chickens fresh from the farm. I noticed the food venders seemed to be doing better than the curio, clothing, dress shops, but the barber shop was busy with people waiting. .

One favorite stop in downtown La Paz is the Parisian fabric store, colorful and vibrant usually filled with women chattering and rummaging through the sale bins, but on this Saturday morning the aisles were quietly empty. I walked back towards Climasters and discovered tortilleria La Rosalia located on Allende near Independencia. The piping hot tortillias were coming off the conveyor belt steamy and puffy and inviting as Krispy Cremes. I bought a kilo for $28 pesos and made a few photos of the workers. On the way home, stopped at the new Burger King at the Soriana Shopping Center and the place was packed. Blockbuster had lines of people at the registers and the mall parking lots were full, so looks like business is good at the mega stores. I've often read about the effects of shopping malls in the suburbs attracting shoppers away from the downtown, but to see it in action--so fast and on a smaller scale such as in La Paz--makes me realize that growth is inevitable, but as consumers we also need to support our local vendors and merchants, otherwise we'll forget why we moved to México.

Cheap Eats: La Fonda Restaurante

When I'm in La Paz there's usually a check list of errands that need to be accomplished and I need to remember to stop and take the time to enjoy a meal. One convenient and favorite stop for breakfast is La Fonda located on the corner of Bravo & Revolución. I usually like to order the chilaquiles with chicken and salsa verde, but this time I opted for the house specialty which is Nopal (cactus) and Cheese Omelette with their house Pepin Sauce, which is reduction of roasted tomatoes and peppers. The meal was served with refried beans and container of hot corn tortillias. With coffee and fresh O.J. the check came to $65 pesos. The mornings head lines read, "Downtown La Paz in Crises."

With the opening of mega stores on the outskirts of town such as Walmart and Sam's club, the downtown merchants are suffering for business.

The downtown did seem quiet for a Saturday, but it was only 9 a.m.

The restaurant was empty when I first arrived. By the time I left a group of gentleman ranchers filled up the outdoor dining area. The centro and old mercado are a few blocks away and will head in that direction.

Climasters of La Paz--Where to have your car's AC serviced in the heat of summer.

When it's over 100 degrees and the humidity is climbing, the most popular guys around are the air conditioning technicians and, when it comes to servicing cars and trucks, Climasters in La Paz does a thorough job. If you're AC is wheezing and and barely cranking out cold air, most likely there may be a few leaks and out freon. I dropped my truck on a Saturday morning by 8 a.m. I enjoyed breakfast and ran a few errands and within a couple of hours they called me with a diagnostic. They found one leak in the main line and needed new valve underneath the dashboard. I authorized the work and they ordered the parts and said they would have the truck ready by 3 p.m. They delivered the truck on time and the AC is working like new and cost $1850 pesos, but I would have paid just about any price to have AC for the drive home to Todos Santos.

Climasters is located on the corner of Allende and Independencia and suggest calling the receptionist Ana for an appointment at 612-128-6008.

La Poza Lagoon

La Poza is a fresh water lagoon on the west side of town and one of the most beautiful places in Todos Santos. The lagoon fills with fresh water from under ground aquifers while the high tide from the Pacific constantly builds and erodes the sand dune. It's a continuous cycle and the landscape is constantly changing with the turn of the tide. La Poza is one of the town's most valued resources and an ideal place to observe wildlife habitats of the area.

Migratory birds will gather along the shoreline. Migrating whales also like to congregate at the mouth of the lagoon and feed on the plankton. You'll also see lovers walking hand in hand, families enjoying the sunset and a few individuals fishing from the surf and catching fresh water shrimp from the lagoon. Be mindful, however. The waters in the La Poza area are unpredictable due to strong under currents between the lagoon and mighty Pacific. It's definitely not a swimming beach, but an ideal place to enjoy wide open space and pristine beauty of a unique eco-system.

Todos Santos Weddings

When it comes to planning a Todos Santos wedding, the obvious choice for the rehearsal dinner or reception is the Hotel California. The average wedding of 50-100 guests will fill up the majority of rooms in the downtown area. This would include The Todos Santos Inn, Hacienda de Todos Los Santos, Casa Bentley, Jardin del Pilar, Posada El Molino, Motel Guluarte, and Alegria (currently under construction). El Hotelito is also within close proximity and Posada La Poza is about a ten minute drive and Flora del Mar and Serendipity Ventures are not too much further. Rather than have an event limited to a single resort location, why not consider filling up downtown Todos Santos and utilizing the town's resources such as art galleries, restaurants, shopping, and recreational activities for guests? The Hotel California and The Todos Santos Inn would make ideal home bases and most of the town's services are within four square blocks. For additional accommodations there are numerous vacation rentals and casitas with ocean views to select from.

For weddings The Hotel California's Chef Dany Lamote and staff serves up some the tastiest regional specialties. For the rehearsal dinner

consider a taco and salsa bar ($25 per person, plus, bar, tax & gratuity). Chef grills the meat to order so guests will be able to enjoy their meal at their leisure whenever they check-in. It's good to keep the rehearsal dinner flexible and informal, and provide a relaxed atmosphere so guests can

have a place to settle in while in anticipation for the big event. The pool area is the ideal location for a cocktail reception or informal rehearsal dinner. For the reception, Chef Lamote suggests a sit down dinner in the hotel's dining room served family style ($55 per person, plus bar, wine, tax & gratuity usd). The menu could include a plated first course such as Caprese Salad, followed by family style platters of grilled yellowtail with salsa verde, arrachera with chipotle mushroom cream sauce, chicken or pork with citrus jamaica honey sauce, seved with roasted seasonal vegetables, pinto beans and cilantro rice. The menu also includes a series of appetizers for the cocktail hour. Chef Lamote also bakes gorgeous wedding cakes and the most popular are flourless chocolate torte with butter cream frosting and white sponge cake with wild passionfruit filling.

Over the next few weeks, I'll be featuring weddings I've coordinated at the Todos Santos Inn, Flora del Mar, Punta Lobos, Casa Bentley, La Alianza (Pescadero), Café Santa Fe and a few others. Styling, flowers and décor by Pueblo Magico Weddings. . . . Todos Santos Weddings

Hacienda Encantada Sale is Closed

Congratulations to my associate Lisa Welsch of Encanto Real Estate on the sale and closing of Hacienda Encantada. Encanto Real Estate had the listing for approximately for 1.5 years-- started at $499K, reduced to $399, and closed in the low $300K's. The buyers got a good deal on a great house in one of the best neighborhoods, and it came fully furnished. Lisa also managed to find the new owners a puppy to enjoy in their new home . . . way to go Lisa! And Congratulations and Welcome to Dennis & Nancy Naigle.

Casa Antigua New Listing

Casa Antigua is a beautifully restored historic house and centrally located for year round living and business venture. The large kitchen and outdoor patio space make this an ideal venue for entertaining family and friends, or make the perfect setting for a destination restaurant. This the location where Mateo and Karla will be hosting their opening and selling specialty baked goods. There's a neighborhood café --La Esquina across the street and Linda Hamilton furniture showroom just a block away at Casa Dracula. The beach is also within short walking distance. Located on Calle Horizonte Street the northside of the downtown: Offered at $375k Encanto Real Estate

Posada La Poza

Posada La Poza Hotel (orange building on right) enjoys a secluded location and overlooks a fresh water lagoon on the west side of town. Each one of their seven suites is uniquely furnished and include AC, fans, mini bar, WiFi, and binoculars for bird watching. Their restaurant is top notch and features daily specials. Their Whale Deck is available for weddings and private parties, and special events on the beach directly in front of Posada LaPoza. Fine dining and sunsets at their best: Posada La Poza

Highway Sign Magically Appears on the South side of Todos Santos . . .

This is not a mirage! I had to blink a few times and make sure my tired eyes weren't playing tricks in the late afternoon sun. I was on the way to the Todos Santos Inn and, before turning onto Degollado, I looked right and noticed a massive overhead highway sign on the outskirts of town. Looks like our dented, dinky welcome sign bit the dust to make room for the new highway. In case you're wondering about the Bimbo truck, it's México's version of Wonder Bread. Did you know Grupo Bimbo is one of the largest bakery companies in the U.S. and has plans to become the world's largest bread manufacturing company by 2010? : Grupo Bimbo

Pilates in Todos

To stay in shape and keep working off the calories in between meals, there are several options for residents and visitors. There's weekly morning yoga classes offered by several instructors at La A.R.C.A. There's Tai Chi, horseback riding, personal training, and there's a serious group of mountain bikers, walkers and runners in our midst. Tennis players meet regularly in Elias Calles and in Todos Santos at Flora del Mar. Within the last year an internationally certified Pilates instructor Mara Adame Fregoso of Pilates in Cabo started offering weekend classes in Todos Santos. The summer schedule is Saturdays at 6:30 p.m. and Sunday's at 10 a.m. at El Hotelito. The classes currently range from 4-6 students to 10-12 students in the high season ($100 pesos per class). Mara recently returned from continuing education training and making us work the abdominals like never before. Visit her web site at Pilates in Cabo, and for El Hotelito.

Pozolé Thursdays at Ataxcon

Landi Ortega of Ataxcon says in her home state of Guerrero, pozolé is served every Thursday. No one knows why, but it's always been that way, says Landi and no matter where you're at--Acupulco, Taxco, Iguala or Zihuateanejo pozolé is traditionally served on Thursdays and Ataxcon is pleased to carry on the tradition in Todos Santos. Landi has been serving pozolé each Thursday for over a year, for her restaurant recently celebrated their first anniversary. She says her pozolé is made from "real pozolé" and takes a day to prepare and the texture is meatier and heartier than the canned version. I had a choice of white or green pozolé with with either cubes of pork or shredded chicken. The pozole was served in clay dishes and garnished with shredded lettuce, sliced radish, avocado and accompanied by a bowl of crispy house made tortilla chips, a quartered lime, and ramekins of chili flakes, oregano and served with a beverage ($65 pesos). The green version has the addition of green mole made from roasted pumpkin seeds and spices, and gives the soup an earthier taste and fuller body. She also serves a spicier red version and I enjoy alternating flavors with each visit.

(Landi at her 1st year anniversary party) Ataxcon also serves regular breakfast and lunch menu Thursdays 9 a.m.-9 p.m.; breakfast and lunch Mon, Tues, Wed and Friday 9 a.m. to 6 p.m. Closed weekends. Next time you're in the mood for some nourishing comfort food at reasonable prices, Landi will make you feel right at home. Located on Colegio Militar between Calle Hidalgo and Marquez de Leon. Tel 044 (612) 176-1275: Click for Photo Gallery

Pequeños Hermanos de Maria Celebrate 37th Anniversary in Todos Santos

Last Thursday afternoon I noticed they were setting up tents in the church courtyard. When I asked a group of women what was going on, they said a group of special missionaries were returning to Todos Santos for their 37th anniversary and offering special services over the weekend. The photographs were taken at Saturday's 7 p.m. mass.
For more information about the missionaries click on the following link: Pequeño Hermanos